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You’ll also see young people of both sexes hanging out together, though you can be sure that opportunities for premarital sex are kept to a minimum.Even in traditional Moroccan societies, mountain Berber women, who do most of the hard work, play a much more open role in society, and rarely use a veil.It should be said, however, that such ideas are gradually disappearing among the urban youth, and you will nowadays find some Moroccan women drinking in the more sophisticated bars, and even more often in cafés, which were, until quite recently, an all-male preserve.In the Villes Nouvelles of large cities, and especially in the Casa–Rabat–El Jadida area, and in Marrakesh, you’ll see most women without a veil or even a headscarf.Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, but always appreciate one.Without a doubt, one of the major disappointments of travelling in Morocco if you are not Muslim is not being allowed into its mosques.It is customary to take a gift: sweet pastries or tea and sugar are always acceptable, and you might even take meat (by arrangement – a chicken from the countryside for example, still alive of course) to a poorer home.

Most Moroccan men still expect to marry a virgin, and most women would never smoke a cigarette or drink in a bar, the general presumption being that only prostitutes do such things.

There is no doubt that, for women especially, travelling in Morocco is a very different experience from travelling in a Western country.

One of the reasons for this is that the separate roles of the sexes are much more defined than they are in the West, and sexual mores much stricter.

Traditionally, Moroccan women are coy and aloof, and uninhibited friendliness – especially any kind of physical contact between sexes – may be seen as a come-on, so being polite but formal when talking to men will diminish the chances of misinterpretation.

The negative side to this approach is that it can also make it harder for you to get to know people, but after you’ve been in the country for a while, you will probably develop a feel for the sort of men with whom this tactic is necessary.

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