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It translated into “No f---ing way, lady.”“Women are not allowed to go into cemeteries,” he told me.I had visited Saudi Arabia twice before, and knew it was the hardest place on earth for a woman to negotiate.Under a glowing Arab moon on a hot winter night, Abdullah was showing off the jewels of his city—charming green, blue, and brown houses built on the Red Sea more than a hundred years ago.The houses, empty now, are stretched tall to capture the sea breeze on streets squeezed narrow to capture the shade.Long averse to non-Muslim curiosity seekers, the Kingdom is now flirting with tourism, though drinking is forbidden and women can’t drive—or do much of anything—without a man.Armed with moxie and a Burqini, the author confronts the limits of Saudi Arabian hospitality, as well as various male enforcers, learning that, as always, it matters whom you know.

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” asked Abdullah Hejazi, my boyish-looking guide in Old Jidda.Saudi writer Nora Al-Saad stressed the need for fair laws to protect the rights of children born of Saudi women and expat men.“The biggest problem their children face is acquiring Saudi citizenship,” she said.“Children born to Saudi men get the passport without any issue and even their wives eventually acquire it too.”Shoura Council member Sadaqah Fadel said there are 700,000 Saudi women married to foreigners, accounting for 10 percent of the Saudi female population.(A hard-line Muslim cleric in Iran recently blamed provocatively dressed women for earthquakes, inspiring the headline SHEIK IT!) According to legend, when Adam and Eve were evicted from the Garden of Eden they went their separate ways, Adam ending up in Mecca and Eve in Jidda, with a single reunion. ) Eve’s cemetery lies behind a weathered green door in Old Jidda.




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