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Many find the texture of kale objectionable — its curliness, if it is not cut finely enough, can cause it to get caught in the throat — but this is not a problem with the flat-leaved, milder collard greens, especially given the method of slicing in this recipe: very thin slices, almost threadlike.One bite of these sprightly green ribbons and their couldn’t-be-simpler dressing, and you’ll be a convert.But so many of the world’s cultures have cooperated in providing us with such dishes, made with established (though, okay, not proven) lucky ingredients for the various New Year’s celebrated around the globe, it would be a pity not to look a little more deeply at the “what” and “why” of fortunate foods.Beans and lentils: From Ancient Rome’s lentils to the American South’s black-eyed peas, legumes have spelled luck in many times and places. And I’m just going to say to , 2018: Please be more civil, kind, thoughtful, generous and more evenhanded with all of us. And I’d like to do this with a generous and joyful heart; because, call me crazy, but I think a heart that is more like that than like a piece of beef jerky makes me and everyone I come in contact with a little happier, and thus spreads the sense of luckiness at least a little farther.

(Money is a major contender, but by no means the only one.Health and longevity, and general sweetness, also figure).Yes, I know you almost certainly know about black-eyed peas, frequently cooked with ham hocks as in Hoppin’ John.Of courting it, by wearing particular colors, taking particular actions and, yes, eating particular foods.Since I’m always fascinated by food as a window into human hopes, fears, aspirations and customs, I have offhandedly been exploring for years the traditional New Year’s dishes alleged to bring luck.

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