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The best are inevitably found deep in the neighborhoods at shops run by people passionate about quality meats (house-sliced rib eye preferred), who cook sandwiches to order (avoid griddles piled with precooked meat) with well-caramelized onions and good, crusty rolls that can hold the juicy drip.Cheese preferences vary, but I'm a provolone-loving evangelist for the #Never Whiz movement.Nonmeat lovers, meanwhile, will find roasted-eggplant goodness in the veggie hoagie at Antonio's Deli (1014 Federal St.), the successor to Chickie's.The great hoagies of the Great Northeast should not be forgotten, either.Again, John's is the standard-bearer, a juicy pan of its thin-sliced meat infused with garlic and rosemary simmering at the back of the stove.

Girard Ave.) is an irresistible version closer to the Italian suckling-pig original, with big chunks of tender meat alongside zesty peppers and sharp cheese. Try the equally amazing, juice-drenched roast beef "combo overboard on the outs" at Old Original Nick's Roast Beef (2149 S. But we'll always be a blue-collar hoagie city first.

For a 21st-century-quality upgrade, visit Sp Ot Gourmet Burgers (2821 W.

Girard Ave.) in Brewerytown, where owner Josh Kim butchers his own meat, works the griddle like a master, and the steak has a good, long savor. Oregon Ave., South Philly) and its salt-flecked rolls are still legit, though worldwide expansion has scuffed some of its luster. neon glow of the titans at Ninth and Passyunk, a recent revisit made my choice clear: Geno's (1219 S.

But the proud Italian American tradition, steeped in the "red gravy" pots of South Philly since the 1800s, remains part of our DNA.

Two of the country's oldest Italian restaurants - Ralph's and Dante & Luigi's - exude genuine Old World charm. Head to the Italian Market for the De Luca family's Villa di Roma (936 S. Eighth St.), the luncheonette where on Fridays in the fall you may catch Temple University football coaches eating lucky bowls of scrippelle soup and gnocchi with braciola for their weekly pregame ritual meal.

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